Tuesday, December 18, 2007

Ordering A Meal

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Ordering meals in a restaurant anywhere in India is an art you can easily learn in a couple of days. Vegan restaurants always have – Vegetarian or Pure Vegetarian - mentioned under the name, so they’re easy to spot.

Most serve the famous Indian thali, and the menu can vary depending on your location. A north Indian thali is a little different from a south Indian thali, though many good south Indian restaurants will offer you a north Indian thali, and vice versa. If you order lunch, it automatically translates into a thali.

A typical south Indian thali (platter) consists of at least two vegetables, a curry or two, a pepper and tamarind curry (a good digestive), buttermilk, curds, pickles, a papadam and a sweet neatly arranged on your thali. Served with the thali are also chapattis/ pooris or roti (Indian breads), followed by a bowl of rice.

You can opt for more chapattis, pooris or rotis instead of rice. Extra rice, rotis, poories, papadam and chapattis are charged a little extra. Nothing else is charged more. The cost of the thali can vary depending on the restaurant but is very reasonable.

A north Indian thali may contain some other variety like pulao, kulcha instead of chapatti, chola batura (popular in the north) etc. It costs a little more than a south Indian thali.
At other restaurants, vegan meals can range from a thali to other Indian and Indo Chinese cuisine. Also available is veg pulao (pilaf).

Other recommended popular vegan dishes include:
Veg makkhanwala – vegetables and cottage cheese cooked with butter in a rich sauce
Aloo gobi masala - cauliflower and potato in spicy sauce
Channa masala - chickpeas cooked with spices
Gobi Manchurian – a popular Indo Chinese cauliflower dish
Hara Pulao - rice with vegetables flavored with spices and coriander leaves
Mutter paneer - green peas with cottage cheese and spices
Navratan korma - nine vegetable cooked in a rich gravy with cheese
Paneer korma - cottage cheese cooked in curds
Paneer palak – a popular dish made from spinach and cottage cheese
Vegetable Biryani - rice cooked with spices and many vegetables
Dal and masala dal (lentil soup) - is a specialty at restaurants in north India, especially Punjab, Chandigarh and Haryana and goes well with rotis

Recommended non vegan cuisine would include:

Butter chicken - very popular and best with naan and rotis
Chili chicken – boneless chicken pieces subtly flavored with pepper, spices and herbs
Ginger garlic chicken – a little pungent but tastes good
Chicken tikka masala – chicken marinated in spices, herbs and yoghurt
Kadhai chicken – chicken gravy cooked in the traditional kadhai
Murg mussulam – another kind of onion and tomato based chicken gravy
Palak chicken - chicken and spinach gravy
Rogan josh – Kashmir delicacy of select lamb chops richly cooked with cashews, almonds and yoghurt. Best tasted at exclusive restaurants
Muton/ chicken biryani - lamb cooked with long grain basmati rice and exotic spices
Mutton curry – lamb cooked Indian style

The above list is intended to help you order your meal in a restaurant. However, this list is very small and many good restaurants will present you a menu that could run into several pages. Exclusive places and restaurants at five star hotels are a gourmet’s delight.

All of the above dishes go best with naan, rotis, kulchas (Indian breads) or even parathas, except meat based rice dishes like pulao and biryani, where you don’t need them.

While ordering rotis,naan, kulchas etc always order one first. If left on your plate for some time, they tend to become hard (especially rotis) and crumble. Order the second one when you’re nearly through with the first. Restaurants serve them hot, and that’s the way they should be eaten.

The quantity served in restaurants may, many a time, suffice for two. Ask for half plate (its also half price). If you’re still hungry, you can order something again. If you’re two, order a full meal and share it. In any case, always order one meal first, and check the quantity

Many restaurants serve Paav Bhaji (mashed vegetables in a tasty gravy, with a dollop of butter on the top) served with small Indian buns (paav) that can easily replace an afternoon meal. Paav bhaji, which is very popular in India, started off much like the American burger, as a poor man’s meal in roadside eateries, but is now served in most places across India and also at Indian restaurants in the west.

Just thought of linking a menu from an online food order website so you get a good idea of items on a typical Indian restaurant menu with prices. Remember these are prices for good mid-range places.

Click here - Typical restaurant menu in India 

Note - Beef is now banned in most states in India for religious reasons and you are advised not to ask for or mention it. Restaurants in Goa and the North East serve beef

Avoid fish in small restaurants unless its prawns. Lobsters, king prawns and exotic sea food is available at expensive restaurants and five stars only.


Please note that mutton is the term used for lamb everywhere in India. Veg and Non Veg are terms used for vegan and non vegan respectively.


Monday, December 17, 2007

Snack It Up

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A wide variety of branded snacks in all sizes and prices are available across the country. You’re never too far from a variety of crisps, waffles, biscuits, cookies, cheese snacks, crackers and a lot more. You can spot them on store shelves and display baskets 
everywhere.

Local branded snacks, available at stores all over, are equally good and a little cheaper. Popular among these are namkeens or savouries (if you drink, this can make an excellent accompaniment) available in a lot of varieties and make a very convenient snack while sightseeing.

Remember to buy some food grade stackable plastic containers, to store snacks and other short eats in your hotel room.

Another good source for light snacks is bakeries. They stock a lot of locally packed snacks, some made by them and reasonably priced. You’ll find many as you walk along and it’s very easy to tell the good ones.

Please note that the climate in India vastly differs from that in your own country, and you can tire easily, especially with the walking you’ll be doing while sightseeing. It is recommended that you never substitute snacks for regular meals. Drink plenty of liquids.

Sunday, December 16, 2007

Photography

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India presents a splendid photo opportunity, for both the professional photographer and the serious amateur, as also for the casual enthusiast. Many photographers have immortalized this country on film.

However, if you’re a serious photographer, you need to keep a few things in mind:
All palaces and monuments in India have been built by maharajas and dynasties of the time, for whom land and money was never an issue, and as such may not fit into a standard 50 mm lens. 


If it's just for your personal collection even a point and shoot will do. The Mysore palace is illuminated on Sundays for about an hour and daily during Dusshera festival with over 80,000 light bulbs presenting a marvelous photo opportunity.

To avoid disappointment, please carry any equipment you may need with you. There are camera fees to be paid at most monuments/ palaces/ other tourist attractions.
Memory cards for digital cameras are widely available, but you're better off carrying them with you.

All major camera brands from Nikon, Canon and Olympus to Sony and Minolta have authorized showrooms and service centers in major cities, if you need them.
Carrying contact details from their websites is advisable, in case you have a problem with your equipment.

At most monuments, you have to pay camera charges for photography. 

Note - At certain places, photography may be prohibited and you have to comply with the rules.

General Travel Tips

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All important monuments in India are guarded by security agencies, and you may not be allowed to carry your backpacks, cameras and other audio video equipment including cell phones inside.

There are manned counters provided at all such places, where you can deposit these, for which you’re given a token. Keep this carefully as it will identify you as the rightful owner of your belongings

You may also leave your backpacks in the tourist coach, as these are generally locked once empty, or even at your hotel, unless it’s a very low budget place.

Do not attempt to carry cameras, pen cameras or anything inside, as security is strictly enforced. You are however, allowed to photograph the monuments from outside. There are professional photographers around, but you shouldn't need them. 

If you need someone to take your pictures, approach other tourists like you. And unless you can run really fast, dont hand over your equipment to strangers.

The best place for your passports and travel documents is always your trouser pocket or handbag.

At some places, like the Taj Mahal at Agra and temples, you are required to leave your footwear outside. Again, there are facilities for depositing them, usually for a small fee.

Select a hotel as close to the main road as possible. It's a little more expensive but they're better and safer and where you choose to stay will decide how safe you are. Never attempt to save a few pennies here. 

The check out time for most hotels in India is 12 noon, though some do offer 24 hour check out facility. Unless you can’t avoid it, try to retain the room till its time to head to the airport or railway station. 

If you’re unwell or suffer from a mild headache, you may need to get back for some rest, and finding another place can be cumbersome and expensive. There are no good public facilities in India, and once you check out, you’re out on the streets, quite literally so.

Some tourists check out in the morning, even though they’re booked on a night flight. Most hotels will accommodate you a little longer if rooms are available, for a small extra and this is advised, as it’s always better to check out from your hotel directly to the airport or station

When you use your hotels restaurant, always make it a habit to pay upfront. Never tell them to add everything to your hotel bill. While Indian cuisine can be an unforgettable experience, names often aren't. Can you remember the veg makkanwalla, rogan josh or paneer palak you were served last night? Ditto for other paid facilities like telephone, internet, pubs, laundry etc.

Another reason being, at the time of check out, you may not have enough time to run through the bill in detail. The lesser you leave to the imagination, the better.

While shopping and paying for services you may use on a regular basis, like cab fare, travel agents fees, sightseeing charges, porters and other sundry expenses, avoid the tendency to convert everything into your currency. If you do that you may assume India to be a very cheap country. And you’re wrong.

The cost of living in cities like Mumbai, Delhi and Bangalore is among the highest in the world. Real estate prices in prime areas of Mumbai, India’s commercial capital, both residential and commercial, have been compared to Manhattan in New York.

India is not cheap anymore. Its just that your dollar goes a little further here, but remember – its still a dollar in your own country, so be careful and spend wisely. 

Except for train/ bus fare, utility bills and essential items of grocery, almost everything else in India is perfectly negotiable. While shopping, one third of the quoted price is usually a nice place to begin.

Private airlines offer discounts, or if you know how to ask, they’ll create one for you. Try telling them of another airline offering lower fares, and they’ll tell you about the offer they forgot to mention, or the memo that just came in from the head office.

And yes, please don’t bring any electronic items like cameras and watches, hoping to sell them here for a profit. That was a bygone era. All brands worth their name from Sony and Canon to Tag heuer, Gucci and Rolls Royce are available in India, and you could end up making a distress sale, for much less than you bought them for.

Vaccinations - Consult your doctor who will be in the best position to advise you based on your requirement and medical history. Do not rely on website information and please do not self medicate.

Public Toilet Facilities

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Public toilet facilities in India are pathetic to say the least. Some social service organizations have been constructing good clean public toilets for a long time now but they are not available everywhere. 

What you can do is walk into some hotel you come across and use their facilities. Most hotels won't refuse tourists and you could also pay a small fee as a token of appreciation.

Be Safe Girl


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As a solo female traveler, its very important to be careful. India is very tourist friendly, and since the western tourist had discovered India a long time ago, people here are used to them.

But like we've already told you, unethical dressing does manage to attract attention, though in most cases, doesn't go beyond a curious glance.

As a single woman or a group of women, avoid hiring a private cab for inter city travel. Always use public transport - bus/ train/ air. Airfare is now cheap in India and regular offers are available. Always ask.

We cannot stress this enough - Never Try To Save Money On The Hotel. Go for the best you can afford even if you have to sacrifice something else for it.

You may however, wish to take a few mild precautions as follows:

Never approach vagabonds on the streets for help. You can easily tell them apart from their appearance.

As a woman, approach the police, decent looking people and students, families on the street, and shops and establishments around you. Walking into a nearby office is also a good idea. All of them will help you.

If you have to visit a pub or disco, try to go early and return early. You can’t expect people to be on their best behavior at such places. Also make sure you’re with a male companion or another woman companion in the least.

Most upmarket pubs and discos have adequate security arrangements. If it’s located in your hotel, it’s a lot better.

Avoid scanty and revealing outfits. Indians in general, tend to associate inappropriately dressed women with lesser morals. And though it’s wrong, it’s unfortunately part of the typical Indian psyche.

They may not harm you, but it does attract attention. Indians tend to be more  inclined towards tourists that dress well. Respect their culture, and they are likely to respect you.

Select a hotel on or as close to the main road as possible. They're better and safer. As far as possible, try to avoid smoking in public places as it’s not considered appropriate for women. In pubs, exclusive restaurants and in your hotel its perfectly okay.

Don't stay out late. Be back at your hotel by 8.00 pm.

Don’t wear a bikini on the beach, except in Goa where everyone does. Even there, don’t venture away from the beach in your bikini.

Stick to busy areas, and don’t follow people who may offer to show you something interesting. Remember, if there is something interesting enough to see, it should be on your itinerary.

Add the telephone number for the police hotline – 112 (equivalent of 911) - into your phone book. You may never need it, but just let it be there.

Never befriend strangers, however nice they may seem...you can never tell. Just keep to yourself.


Friday, December 14, 2007

Backpacker Tips

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Most backpackers come to India for that typical South Asian experience within a reasonable budget. As a backpacker, you do have a wide range of options available.

Your typical budget for every city you visit should not exceed $40 - $50 for each day in a reasonably good budget hotel. That should include food and other small personal expenses and also local bus/ train fare and taxi fare for short distances. 

Please keep the following points in mind :

Most hotels at this price range are usually within walking distance from the railway station you just arrived at.

If you've arrived by air, don’t look around the airport. Even if there are a few, you won’t find them. Don’t follow touts. Just head for the railway station and start looking. 

Stations for outstation trains are centrally located and convenient for stay in the city and for sightseeing. Walk around and you’ll find a lot of small hotels. Touts may follow you here too, but its their job, and its your job to ignore them.

You get a feel of the hotel from the entrance, reception lobby and general upkeep. If it doesn't look good, it isn't. Keep walking.

Always check the room and the toilets before you pay them a penny. Also turn on the taps. If they tell you the water will come, chances are, it wont. Most charge you for two days in advance, and this is standard practice. And they’re very, very negotiable.

Plan your journey such, that you arrive early in the day. After dark its difficult to pick and choose as you’d be in a hurry to settle down.

Most of these small hotels don’t have restaurants of their own but there are many restaurants outside that cater to their guests.

If you ask one of the room service boys to fetch you food, the price could double. Ditto with cigarettes and everything else. Just drag yourself out. You’ll save your dollars. 

Self help is the best policy here.

Buy a few stackable food grade plastic containers as soon as you arrive in India. Use these to store, biscuits, cookies, crisps, chocolates and other snacks in your hotel room. This is recommended for everyone and not just the backpacker.

Restaurants in India usually serve a generous quantity, which is appropriate for Indians, but may be in excess for you. Most restaurants will serve you – half – that quantity for nearly half the price of the dish. This will more than suffice for one person. If you’re two, simply order one full meal and an empty plate!

KFC, Pizza Hut, McDonalds, Dominos, Pizza Corner, Subway, Burger King and others have outlets across cities and bigger towns.

Low budget hotels are not always situated in the best of locations and If you’re a single female traveler, a group of women or a family, it’s wiser to upgrade to a budget hotel in the least.
Most hotels in this price range do not offer packages and charge on a per night basis. Some may have a basic travel desk or could arrange local sightseeing for you.

Tuesday, December 11, 2007

INDIA - Myths And Facts

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India is an often misunderstood country, mostly because facts have always been distorted or misrepresented by armchair travelers, who don’t really visit any country, but advise other travelers based on what they think they know, or more often heard from others like themselves. 

As a tourist, it is better not to rely on borrowed opinion from people who know little themselves. You’ll enjoy your visit to India a lot more if you come with an open mind, than with a pre-conceived distorted image of this country.

Don’t expect western standards here unless you’re a well heeled luxury traveler. You will have nearly all the facilities you have back home sans the frills. As an example, India offers some excellent shopping but may not be New York’s fifth avenue or a cobbled street in Paris.

Similarly all cities, towns and villages in India are well connected by an extensive rail and road network. But there is no automated payment system like you know it in your country. 
All facilities do exist, but don’t look for your standards. Some of them may not even be practical here.

Some common myths about India:

Myth - If you are navigating streets by map, be aware that reading or understanding street signs in India can be difficult
Fact - Tourists in India rarely use maps to navigate streets as most of them walk around or use public/ private transport and prefer to ask people on the streets for directions. Maps are used by tourists to find places and calculate distances.


Traffic signs in India are the same as elsewhere in the world. A sign that says – LEFT - in the US, does the same here too. Yes, traffic is chaotic and driving yourself inside cities is not advised as road conditions in many cities leave a lot to be desired, and drivers seldom follow traffic rules unless forced to.

Traffic policemen are a friendly lot. and if you do decide to drive, they will let you off for minor offences, and unless you're involved in a major mishap, you should have no problem.

Myth - There are many third world disadvantages and visitors generally come back with at least a tummy bug during their holiday.
Fact - Firstly, India is not a third world country anymore. It is the fastest growing economy in the world along with China and the fourth largest in Asia. Yes infrastructure (mostly the quality of roads across the country) is an area the government is seriously looking at from many years and is continually improving, albeit slowly. 


But tourist facilities are well developed and India caters to all categories of tourists from the budget traveler to the luxury seeker.

Indian cuisine is very popular abroad and is on the menu of some of the most exclusive hotels and resorts in the world. Your system needs to get accustomed to your changed eating habits and you should be okay in a couple of days.

That has more to do with your anatomy than Indian food. As a tourist you may also enjoy road side eateries especially at beaches. Everyone does and its perfectly fine. There are restaurants everywhere that cater to all budgets.

Myth - Carry some rolls of toilet paper with you as there is no guarantee they will be available in India.
Fact - Yes, It is advisable to carry toilet paper and napkins while you travel, but you don’t need to carry them with you. Stuff like these are commonly used by many Indian households too and are available everywhere except in very small villages and remote towns

Myth - Tipping is uncommon in India except in upmarket hotels.
Fact - On the contrary, tipping is customary but optional in smaller hotels and restaurants where staff come from largely uneducated and economically weaker sections of society. Upmarket hotels and restaurants are governed by rules prohibiting staff from accepting tips unless its voluntary. 


Tips are usually a very small amount. Its not 5% of the bill like in your country just a small amount should be okay depending on how many people are served. For instance if your bill is rs 200 you may tip rs 10 and if its rs 500, you may still tip rs 10 and its perfectly acceptable.

Myth - People in Indian society won’t lift a finger to help you and will not stop nagging unless you pay a baksheesh (inverse tipping)
Fact - Remember that people connected with the tourism industry anywhere in the world wont offer you any free services in just as much the same way as you wouldn't offer your services free to anyone. Its their business, but the above statement is a gross exaggeration and an uncalled for comment on Indian society in general. 


The common man on the street loves and respects the foreign tourist and is always eager to help without expecting anything in return. As a tip we would suggest you approach students and youngsters on the streets for help. They are very smart and know every nook and cranny in a city and will go out of their way to help you. Students are easy to spot with their colorful college attire and are usually found in groups.

More importantly, all of them speak good English. Remember many Indian families have children, relatives and friends working in the US and other countries and will always treat you with respect

Myth - Be careful as street demonstrations and protests are common in India
Fact - India is a democratic country and Indians consider holding demonstrations as their constitutional right though it’s wrong to say it’s common. There may be a few in a year but mostly small and non violent. These things never involve or bother foreign tourists and are never a security risk. 

Of late India has been experiencing what has been described as "rape culture" and to some extent it is true and foreign tourists have been victims of sexual assault. Please go through our other sections on keeping yourself safe in India, especially for women.

MYTH - India is a poor country and most Indians live in abject poverty earning rs.20 or less than 40 cents a day. Also cited is that 86% of the Indian working population lives in deplorable conditions
Fact - This is more of a joke and not really worthy of comment. Every country has a labor class and their living conditions cannot be used as a yardstick for an entire country. Indians are today among the richest in the world and many are listed on the Forbes list of billionaires. 


Though that cannot be used as a yardstick either, the facts are as follows :
The average wage for an unskilled daily wage laborer is about $ 6 a day, and in most cases the spouse also works taking that to a total family income of $ 10 a day, which is considered sufficient for that class of society. It’s a different matter that habits like alcohol abuse, gambling etc ensure that they save nothing thereby reducing chances of improving their circumstances.

India adds more millionaires to it’s list every year than most countries in the world
Almost every luxury brand in the world has a presence in India . These brands would never invest in a country if people couldn't afford them.


Yes, disparity does exist and benefits take a lot of time to percolate down to the masses. Unlike the west, most people from the lower classes are uneducated and not aware of even their basic rights. But things are changing with the government offering incentives like free meals to students in state run schools and free education for girls up to the 12th grade. There is no social security in India like in the west.

India follows the reservation system for education and government jobs and people from the lower/ backward castes/ classes in India today are far better off than those from the upper classes.

Myth - Majority of tourists fall victim to con during their travel through India.
Fact - This is true if you are ill informed and completely ignorant about any country you visit, including India. Though the best of facilities are available here, tourism in India is largely an unregulated sector and depends heavily on touts and agents for business.


Remember that they are not criminals and don’t intend to physically harm you. Yes, they will make money out of you if you’re not careful. If you do your bookings in advance, and opt for guided tours, you shouldn't have a problem. If you’re on your own, ask people around you, like we told you – students - and tell the touts and agents you don’t need them. 

If you do manage to get conned, put the incident quickly behind you. Con stories are part of travel folklore and someone who tells you he’s always got it right needs closer inspection. People seldom remember pleasant experiences and never forget the nasty ones. Someday, you could be narrating those very same unpleasant experiences to your grandchildren and saying - oh what a fool I've been.

Myth - Toss in some anti diarrhoea, antiseptic cream, sunscreen and basic antibiotics before you come to India
Fact - This is recommended as change in eating habits often takes a few days of getting used to but additional reports of cholera and other disease are completely unfounded. India has eradicated cholera and hospitals are required to report any new cases to the authorities. You don’t have to bother about disease at all unless there is outbreak of a epidemic.

Also bring along your regular medication. Private hospitals in India offer excellent medical facilities should you ever need them. India is in fact a destination for medical tourism.

Myth - Hotels in India are dirt cheap and cost from under $10 to $200 but be prepared to sleep with rats and cockroaches.
FACT - This is a highly exaggerated statement and does not, in any way do justice to the sheer variety of accommodation available in India for every traveler. What you would get for $10 is a bed in a room or a small room in a crowded and often lesser recommended shady locality of the city. These are generally called lodges and very often not maintained well or can be outright dirty.


While you may stumble upon reasonably good accommodation at this price point in very small cities and towns, those may not necessarily be tourist destinations. Hotels in India don’t stop at $200 and can go well over $2000 for one night in some luxury hotels.

Myth - Shops in India will quote twice the price to foreign tourists
Fact - This is true. Most general shops in India are closed on Sundays with the exception of supermarkets and larger stores and shops located in busy tourist areas, so you could use Sundays exclusively for sightseeing


Myth - Cabbies and auto rickshaws will take you for a ride
Fact - This is true. Insist on a meter or else ask people the average fare to your destination and fix it with the driver in advance. It will save you a lot of headache later.


Myth - Beggars are a common sight everywhere in India
Fact - Beggars can be found at certain places but not everywhere and they will try their luck with you. You are most likely to encounter many of them at places of tourist interest like parks, monuments, museums etc. and street urchins will sometimes tug at your clothes, but you can always chase them away.


Think of it as another experience and don’t make much of it. Keep some loose change handy, so that you can hand it over to them if you wish to. The police now deal strictly with them following complaints from tourists and the problem has reduced considerably compared to what it was before. 

Just want to add here that most shops will not oblige you with change unless you buy something from them, so when you shop and pay your restaurant bills, pay with bigger denomination notes. That is the easiest way to get change. If you need coins, ask them. When you buy something from them, they gladly oblige you. This is not just with you, they don’t give us change for free either.

Myth - Banks in India are slow and you could end up waiting in long queues
Fact - Not true. India has one of the best banking systems anywhere with bank deposits in India accounting for more than half the country’s GDP which is one of the highest in the world. 


All banks with the exception of branches at very small and remote locations (and you wont need those anyway) are computerized and very quick. If you’re a foreigner, you will be given preference over local customers.

Try to avoid Mondays, as being the first day of the week most banks are crowded. Many foreign banks operate in India.

Myth - Post offices in India are primitive and painstakingly slow, so if you want to send a parcel, it could take ages
Fact - The Indian postal service is one of the oldest in the world and has always been known for excellent and prompt service. The margin of error is one of the lowest in the world despite the sheer magnitude of operations. 


The postal department also runs a courier service – SPEEDPOST that is equally efficient. Many private couriers also operate in the country. DHL and BLUEDART have been in India for a long time and have offices in major cities. You will find courier company franchisees in shops on the street.

Saturday, December 8, 2007

Indian Railways

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The Indian railways is one of the oldest and largest rail networks in the world. It spans the length and breadth of the country connecting almost every big and small city and town you can think of. Rail travel in India can be a fun filled way of exploring the country.

The experience inside a second class train compartment - and we strongly recommend second class rail travel for tourists - is varied, exciting and enriching when compared to the often drab and boring confines of an airplane. Whenever you have to travel relatively short distances (like Bombay to Goa or Bangalore to kerala), please do use trains. You’ll love the experience.

A combination of rail and air journeys is the way to go. For very short journeys, you may also use state government luxury buses. For some destinations, a bus may be the only available option.

Always book your tickets a few days in advance, and check if you’re given a confirmed ticket. If not it needs to be confirmed before you can board the train. You can do that one day in advance.

I must confess here that the system is not very clean, and ticket collectors sometimes help you confirm your tickets (in case you’re not able to) just before departure for a small “fee”. Nobody knows how they do it, and nobody ever bothers to ask. Never approach touts on the platform. It’ll cost you a lot more. Ticket collectors in India wear a white uniform with black coats and are easily recognizable.

That said, ticket collectors or TC’s as they are commonly referred to can be very helpful and assist you if porters and touts pester you. They board the train with you to check passenger’s tickets and are actually a friendly lot. Most are very talkative and passionate about the railways and can provide you with a lot of information if you care to ask.

You can book any rail journey to any place in India from any railway station that services outstation trains and there is one in every city and small town. And yes most of the time you will be given a confirmed ticket. 

You can book your journey online from anywhere in India or abroad, either yourself or through a travel agent, but doing it across the counter is a lot more interactive and offers more flexibility.

For online booking please visit - http://www.irctc.co.in

Almost all railway platforms in India have small shops that stock everything you’ll need for your journey from tea/ coffee/ juices to branded potato crisps and bottled water. Do buy light snacks that will keep you busy during your journey and don’t forget drinking water. Always carry a high beam torch and spare batteries when you travel. It can be very useful.


All long distance trains in India have pantry cars that sell tea/ coffee/snacks/packed lunch and dinner. Egg biryani or egg pulao is as far as they go in non vegan food. No meat/ poultry/ fish etc is served on any train. That in any case is good while traveling, and shouldn't be an issue.

The pantry service is licensed by the Indian railways to private caterers and quality and hygiene has sometimes been an issue . Uniformed pantry staffs come to you selling the appropriate food item for that time of the day, and take orders for meals. Tea/ coffee are served at regular intervals and food is reasonably priced.

And yes, do interact with fellow travelers. They know more about your destination than you do. If you’re smart enough, you can learn from them.

Always carry enough small change when you travel. Trains stop at some stations along the way for less than five minutes, and vendors immediately hop in selling their wares. If you buy something for rs.10 and pay rs.100, he would simply pretend he has no change and play for time knowing the train will move anytime. When it does, he simply jumps out and with him the rs.90 he owed you. This is a common ruse used by vendors in trains. Didn’t we tell you that rail journeys can be a colorful and enriching experience?

Don’t ever buy any items of food from these vendors in trains unless its groundnuts, which should be fine.

Smoking on railway platforms and trains all over India is prohibited. Remember that most trains in India don’t have doors that shut automatically once you’re inside, unless it’s the metro which are local trains anyway.Most of the time the doors are wide open and Indian railways seem to think that closing the doors is the passenger’s responsibility. And to be fair, unless you have suicidal tendencies it isn't really an issue. 

Just one last thing - rail travel in India is cheap and exciting. Use the cash you save to pamper yourself. How about a meal in a five star hotel or treating yourself to a wonderful spa experience or both?

And if you've seen pictures of crowded Indian trains with passengers traveling on the roof, those are local trains during peak hours. Many of them travel without tickets too. We've told you elsewhere in this blog that many western standards may not even be practical here.

As you go back to your own country, you may fall in love with India or simply hate it, but this is one country you’ll always want to come back to, because of that eerie feeling that you've left a part of you behind.

Pharmacies

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Drug stores or chemists as you know them and medical shop as most Indians will understand it, are easy to locate anywhere you go. Many major global drug manufacturers have been in India for a long time and include Wockhardt, Pfizer, Cipla, Glaxo Smithline and Indian majors like Ranbaxy and Dr.Reddy among others, so be assured of quality.

Hospitals and bigger nursing homes have 24 hour pharmacies in their premises and you will surely find one close by, should the need arise. Many states in India require chemists to ask for a prescription before they dispense, so please carry them along. You may also bring your regular medication with you.

If you have a known medical history, please carry copies of your medical records. Lone travelers are advised to hand over a copy of their medical history to the reception desk at hotels where they check in. In the event of an incident, the staff could hand it over to the consulting doctor thus saving precious time.

Medical Facilities

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Medical facilities in India operate on the - you get what you pay for model. Some state run hospitals are well maintained but even Indians who can afford a better alternative generally shy away from them. Most government hospitals are not maintained well, and this could be the reason why private hospitals in India are very expensive.

Major private hospitals in India are well known and should surely be on your insurance companies list of approved hospitals. Worthy of mention here are the Apollo Hospitals group (many cities), Manipal Hospital and Heart Foundation (Bangalore), Escorts in Delhi and Breachcandy and Hinduja hospitals in Mumbai besides many others.

Private hospitals and medical facilities in India are comparable to the best in the world and people come from all over the world including the UK and the United States for surgeries because of long waiting lists in their country and India's reputation as an excellent medical destination.

In fact many tourists combine healthcare (including dental treatments) and tourism and the concept has come to be known as - medical tourism.

If you do need a hospital in any city you are in, ask for Mission Hospitals as they're commonly known here. If available, they should be your first choice. Nothing modern or fancy. Just old world charm and good doctors and treatment. Very affordable. 

Prominent among them is the Christian Medical College and Hospital, Vellore (Tamil Nadu). Founded in 1900 by American missionary Dr. Ida Scudder, it is ranked among the top five in the country.

Note that treatment at private hospitals in India is very expensive, so make sure your medical insurance covers it.

Some of the best hospitals in India include: (click links to go to website)

Tata Memorial Hospital (cancer) - Mumbai (charitable)

AIIMS - New Delhi - Govt. run and caters to top politicians in India including the Prime Minister....and that could be the reason for top quality. (pictured above)

CMC Hospital Vellore - Christian Non-profit

Jaslok Hospital Mumbai

Breachcandy hospital Mumbai

Bombay Hospital Mumbai

Kokilaben Ambani Hospital

Hinduja Hospital Mumbai

Hiranandani Hospital

Manipal Hospitals 

Narayana Health Group

Apollo Hospitals Group - Locations

Fortis Hospitals Group - Locations

The Maximum Retail Price

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Please be aware that all food and non food packaged products in India have a maximum retail price listed on them, and that price by law, has to include all taxes. In other words a customer cannot be charged any more than what is indicated on the packaging.

This applies to all essential commodities sold in groceries and supermarkets. In case of fancy goods and gift items, the price on the box is more of a joke as most retailers will sell you for less than half that price, if you play your cards well.

If you need to buy any gift articles or clothes you're better off shopping at supermarkets or a large store or shopping plaza as prices though higher than the small shops, are generally fixed and all items have price tags on them. You may end up paying a slightly higher premium for the convenience and luxury of shopping at a big store but not beyond that. If you step in at the right time, discounts may also be available.

When you shop at smaller shops where prices are open to bargaining, you may end up paying 3 - 4 times as much as a larger store simply because you had no idea of the right price. And when you don't know the approximate cost, you can't really bargain effectively.

Shopping at larger stores and government emporiums is a good idea and could in fact work out cheaper than smaller shops as larger stores won't cheat you. 

Please be informed that there are government emporiums and government approved emporiums. These are marked accordingly under the name and government approved emporiums are to be avoided as they are no better than petty shops as far as fleecing innocent tourists is concerned. 

Government emporiums are directly controlled and staffed by the government and will never cheat you.

Wednesday, December 5, 2007

Smart Shopping

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Shopping in India can be an enjoyable experience. Shopping districts in every city are well known and you should have no difficulty locating them. If you’re looking for ethnic outfits, there are plenty of shops selling them everywhere. 

But buying clothes from shops on the street is much cheaper if you can bargain. A workaround is to ask other shoppers to bargain on your behalf. They understand your predicament and would gladly help. Textiles have come a long way and you almost never have to worry about quality anymore.

Remember that except at places like hotels, pubs and commercial services rendered like laundry, porters etc people don’t expect anything from you. They will gladly help you if you approach them but like I've already said – don’t approach the wrong people.

If you happen to visit Mumbai (Bombay) don’t miss the – chor bazaar – literally translated as the thieves’ bazaar. Especially if you’re an interior designer or an antiques collector this place is a treasure trove. Located right in the middle of the city just off one of Mumbai’s busiest roads (Mohammad ali road) it’s probably as old as Mumbai itself.

Spread over a vast area, you’ll find everything from the proverbial pin to elephant here. The place is very shabby and you have to look very hard to find something that interests you. Of course you have to take it back and restore it to its original condition.

This place is a favorite haunt for designers and architects and unless you share their passion, you can give it a miss. And yes, if you think you’re good at bargaining, Mumbai’s chor bazaar can put you to the ultimate test.

Also recommended are the state emporiums. You’ll find them in many cities you visit. They are very spacious and offer a quiet, peaceful ambience in sharp contrast to the world outside. If you plan to buy expensive carved teak or rosewood furniture, tribal works of art, tribal paintings and handicrafts etc, you can buy them here.

It’s a little more expensive but authenticity and quality is guaranteed. You get a bill, and more expensive carved furniture and other exclusive items come with a certificate of authenticity. They also arrange to ship large items to your location.

If you want to buy small sandalwood items and other genuine decorative items for your home, emporiums are a nice place to shop. They also stock quality textiles and readymade garments. Emporiums in south India are a nice place to shop for silk ties.

Even if you don’t want to buy, do visit state emporiums in every city, just for a glimpse of local handicraft and artefacts from that state. Staffs in emporiums leave you alone to go around the place at leisure, and seldom approach you, unless you have a query.

If you just want to buy cheap trinkets and souvenirs, you may buy them outside where they’re cheaper. Try buying them while you’re shopping. Vendors at tourist places like palaces, monuments and parks can be expensive.

Shopping Tip - Never shop in haste. Keep aside a full day for shopping at leisure. Shopkeepers can sense when you’re in a hurry and will certainly take advantage of the situation. If you think they don’t understand your accent, think again. Many shopkeepers and even beggars in tourist areas speak more languages than you do.

Don’t buy brass items like vases, ashtrays, flower pots etc as these require regular cleaning and polishing, else they tend to fade and discolor.

There are major supermarket chains in India that have a presence in many cities. Notable among them are Reliance Fresh, Big Bazaar, Spencers, More, D Mart and Foodworld. They stock a wide range of products and many even stock select imported foodstuff you may be accustomed to, so do stock up on non -perishables when you are in a big city. You may not find those items in smaller towns.

Supermarkets in India are generally a little cheaper than local groceries, and regular discounts are available. And as all of them are owned and operated by reputed business houses, quality of goods is assured. Small groceries are located round every corner in every city across the country.